 |
There are currently, 15 guest(s) and 0 member(s) that are online.
You are Anonymous user. You can register for free by clicking here
|
|
Select Interface Language:
|
Husqvarna Parts 502 00 45 01 Brushcutter Brush Blade Guard 165R
$SOLD OUT
|
| |
Common Cold Weather Snow Blower Problems - 01/02/2009
Posted on Friday, January 02 @ 17:27:59 EST by admin
|
Snow blowers are made to run in the cold weather but when it gets REALLY cold
outside, funny (or not so funny things) can develop.
Same goes for a snow blower
that is stored outside or in an enclosure where the temperature is at or near the same
temperature as
outside. If you have a heated garage, or a way to heat your garage or shed or
wherever you store your snow blower, then you are way ahead of the game.
I don't know how winter is in other parts of the country but, here in
the Northeast, when there is a snow storm the temperature is generally in the
twenties or low thirties. But sometimes it snows when the temperature is in the
single digits or close to zero and that is when some new and not so nifty things
start happening to snow blowers stored in the cold.
Handles won't depress.
Impellers won't engage. Engines that were running fine won't start. Belts start
to smoke and squeal when engaged. Cables break and starters won't engage.
A lot of that has to do with putting away a recently used "hot"
snow blower without cleaning off the snow. The snow melts and freezes in the
strangest places.
Let's address most of these problems assuming we have a two
stage wheel propelled snow blower. But first, a brief explanation of the types
of snow blowers out there.
A two stage snow blower has the large
steel auger up front that turns at a fairly slow rate of speed and scoops in the
snow. The second stage is the smaller, faster turning fan below the chute that
actually throws the snow. A single stage snow blower has a fast turning impeller
/ auger that turns at a fast rate of speed and both scoops and throws the snow.
The wheel propelled single stage snow blower is becoming rare as the
rubber-paddled units have taken their place. They are lighter and less expensive
to make and they throw the snow just as far or farther.
1) Let's take the smoking belt or impeller won't engage scenarios (usually
related) first.
You grab the auger engagement handle and no snow comes out of the
chute but the belt starts squealing or smoking. Let go of that handle RIGHT NOW
and shut down your snow blower. Tip it back on it's handle bars if possible. If
the gas tank is full, put some plastic from a grocery bag under the filler cap
to keep the gas from pissing out of the cap vent. Reach in back to the second
stage impeller. That's the 3 or 4 bladed fan that throws the snow out of the
chute on a 2 stage snow blower. See if you can turn it by hand. If not, it is
probably frozen to the bottom of the drum it is housed in. There is usually a
drain hole at the bottom of the drum to prevent this but it is not always
sufficient. Occasionally the impeller blade coasts to a stop with one of the
blades straight down. This makes it easier to freeze.
2) How to repair:
Drag or drive your snow blower into an area where you can turn
on some heat to thaw out the snow blower. If you don't have this luxury, use a
hair dryer. I've also seen people make a tent with a tarp over the snow blower
and using a space heater to thaw out the unit. Be careful how close you set up
the heater and the direction you point it. A space heater can melt or start a
plastic tarp on fire. You could just direct the space heater into the auger area and hope
for the best.
It doesn't usually take too much to melt the ice. Using a propane
torch is the least desirable and most unsafe option, as an open flame is
dangerous near any outdoor power equipment. Just a little bit of gas
spilled nearby can be a potential disaster waiting to happen. You've read about
it in the newspaper so don't even go there or you'll end up in the newspaper
too. I can't tell you how many times, back in the business, when we just dragged
a bunch of frozen snow blowers into our warm shop prior to entering the "triage
unit" and that was all that was needed to cure the problem.
3) How to prevent:
Clean the snow off the snow blower and inside the impeller /
auger housing when done snow blowing. Then make sure that none of the impeller
blades is pointing straight down where the melted snow can puddle and freeze.
4) Auger or wheel drive handle won't engage:
This generally occurs on models with
cables rather than linkage. The cable gets moisture inside and freezes. If you
don't have cables, follow the linkage to a pivot point that is frozen. This may
require removing an access cover. Thaw out cables or linkage using same method as frozen
impeller; safely applied heat.
5) How to prevent:
Remove both ends of the cable and apply low temperature or
white lithium grease. Work the cable back and forth to coat the entire inner
length. WD40 or any rust penetrant may do the trick but the grease
is more permanent.
PLEASE NOTE: If you have a grease gun or use grease out of
the tube or tub on your snow blower, make sure it is LOW TEMPERATURE GREASE. It
will say so on the container. If unsure, ask the sales person - if you can find
a knowledgeable one these days. The grease is usually blue in color. Don't use regular ball bearing or general use grease on your
snow blower. It will gum up when it is cold out and make parts stick or harder to
use.
On units that have linkage instead of cables, thaw out and spray or apply
low temp lubricants on all pivoting parts.
6) Manual or electric starter won't engage:
This is why it is a good investment
to buy the optional electric starter for your snow blower. If one starter
doesn't work the other one might. Again, safe heat applied in the proper
location may solve the problem temporarily but it will probably happen again when the
weather temperature drops. If your manual starter won't engage or the rope stays
out, it should be
removed.
There is
generally a metal "dog" that freezes. It should be fairly obvious when
the starter is removed where the "dog" or metal tab that engages into
the starter cup is located. You shouldn't have to remove the pulley but you
should remove the center screw so the lube gets down into the pivot area. In this case, any sort of grease is usually NOT recommended. Use WD40 or
similar liquid lubricant. Grease
just gets gummy in cold weather, especially on a smaller gadget such as the
starter dog.
If your electric starter sounds like it is spinning but it is not turning the
engine over, then chances are the starter gear is frozen to it's shaft. Thaw with safe heat.
To help prevent freezing, a light lubricant on the gear shaft is recommended.
On
some machines you may be able to use a spray lube with the plastic nozzle extension on
the shaft without removing the starter - but removal of the starter may be
required. That way you can slide the gear all the way out and spray the shaft
with low temp lube underneath where the gear slides or parks when not in use.
7) No start:
A snow blower that ran fine the last snow storm but now won't start,
especially if it is very cold out, might just have a small amount of moisture in
the tank, fuel line or carb that is frozen. Thawing out safely and adding gas
line anti-freeze should do the trick but, if there is too much water in the fuel,
you may have to remove the fuel line and drain the tank.
But that doesn't remove
water in the carb. Some older snow blowers have a spring loaded drain on the
bottom for that purpose. If not, you can crack the high speed adjustment screw
or jet (as the case may be) open a few turns to drain the float bowl.
This a
messy job as the fuel usually goes in all directions or down your arm so have a
coffee can and some rags ready.
Removing the carburetor or bowl itself is best left to a trained technician.
But if you feel confident enough to try it yourself, be warned that if removing
the float bowl (assuming it has a float type carburetor) is done in the horizontal position, the float and /or float
needle can fall out. It is best to prop the unit up safely on it's nose with an
empty or near empty fuel tank. With clean rags and coffee can at the ready, the
bowl can then be carefully removed and cleaned out.
Carefully remove the float
and check by shake it to determine if it has water or ice inside. If it does,
replace with a new one and consider a carburetor rebuild kit while you are at
the parts store.
Note: Some snow blowers have a diaphragm carburetor, and regardless of
design, should have a carburetor kit installed if you are disassembling.
Older
Briggs engines with diaphragms have the carburetor bolted to the top of the gas
tank and have to be removed as a unit.
As you can see, some preventative maintenance can go a long way towards
avoiding cold weather freeze ups. If you are mechanically inclined but, can't
afford a mechanic, purchase a repair manual to help you with your project. It's
a good investment towards doing the job right the first time and it will feel
good to do the job yourself.
Patrick Yellen is retired from the family outdoor power equipment business
where he plied his trade for almost 30 years.
He now designs and manages several
websites including http://www.SaratogaSuckers.com
- the Funny Cide of
Saratoga Springs NY and it's Horse Racing Legacy.
|
| |
|
Don't have an account yet? You can create one. As a registered user you have some advantages like theme manager, comments configuration and post comments with your name.
|
|
Associated Topics
 |
|
|
|
